Thursday, 20 September 2012

FROM A GRASSHOPPER TO A TURTLE


We were about to leave Telč when we discovered a hitch-hiker on board – a huge green grasshopper was inside one of the van’s open skylights.  The only ride he got was on John’s shoulder as he took him out of the van!

The town of Trebič is another one with a long, relatively narrow main “square”.  Several of the houses are decorated in a very distinctive black and white style – this one is now the Tourist Office.

The small Jewish quarter has been well preserved, even though most of the inhabitants were killed by the Nazis.  The old Synagogue – a plain white building outside – is beautifully decorated inside.

The church, known as the Basilica, once formed part of the fortifications.

Unlike many of the churches we have seen, it is plain and simple inside. 

In the crypt is a display of charming pottery figures like this Nativity scene.

St John of Nepomuk was a priest who, in 1393, refused to divulge to King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia, (not the one made famous by the Christmas Carol!) what the Queen had said during confession.  The King had St John’s tongue cut out and eventually killed him by throwing him off the Charles Bridge in Prague.  It is said that a crown of five stars was seen floating on the water where he drowned.  This story was the inspiration for the design by Jan Blažej Santini of the church at Zelena Hora which is dedicated to St John. 

The church and churchyard are designed with mathematical precision on a ground plan based on concentric circles spreading out in twelve equal steps (In the Bible twelve is a symbol of the completion of all things – the Kingdom of Heaven). The church is shaped like a five pointed star with five entrances, while the churchyard is a ten pointed star.

Its windows are positioned so that nowhere is in shadow and in the centre of the domed ceiling there is a large picture of St John’s tongue!  The dome is surrounded by a balcony where the organ is situated – you can just make it out in the bottom right of this picture

We cycled into Olomouc from just outside the city walls

The Cathedral is dedicated to St Wenceslas, who IS the one in the Christmas Carol.

Inside is a small chapel, known as the Abbot’s Chapel where, in 1932, the original frescos were discovered under several layers of paint.  They were painted around 1260 and depict the life of St John the Apostle

We went to the main square where there is an astronomical clock on the Town Hall.  It was restored during the Communist era and all the saints replaced by workers, two of whom strike the quarter hours on an anvil.

There are three fountains in the square, the most interesting and unusual being Arion's Fountain depicting nightmarish scenes from under the sea.

It is said that rubbing the turtle's head will bring you good luck.  We didn't test this out.

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