We were about to leave Telč when we discovered a
hitch-hiker on board – a huge green grasshopper was inside one of the van’s
open skylights. The only ride he got was
on John’s shoulder as he took him out of the van!
The town of Trebič is another one with a long, relatively
narrow main “square”. Several of the
houses are decorated in a very distinctive black and white style – this one is
now the Tourist Office.
The small Jewish quarter has been well preserved, even though most
of the inhabitants were killed by the Nazis.
The old Synagogue – a plain white building outside – is beautifully
decorated inside.
The church, known as the Basilica, once formed part of the
fortifications.
Unlike many of the churches we have seen, it is plain and simple
inside.
In the crypt is a display of charming pottery figures like this
Nativity scene.
St John of Nepomuk was a priest who, in 1393, refused to divulge
to King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia, (not the one made famous by the Christmas
Carol!) what the Queen had said during confession. The King had St John’s tongue cut out and
eventually killed him by throwing him off the Charles Bridge in Prague. It is said that a crown of five stars was
seen floating on the water where he drowned.
This story was the inspiration for the design by Jan Blažej Santini of
the church at Zelena Hora which is dedicated to St John.
The church and churchyard are designed with mathematical precision
on a ground plan based on concentric circles spreading out in twelve equal steps
(In the Bible twelve is a symbol of the completion of all things – the Kingdom
of Heaven). The church is shaped like a five pointed star with five entrances,
while the churchyard is a ten pointed star.
Its windows are positioned so that nowhere is in shadow and in the
centre of the domed ceiling there is a large picture of St John’s tongue! The dome is surrounded by a balcony where the
organ is situated – you can just make it out in the bottom right of this
picture
We cycled into Olomouc from just outside the city walls
The Cathedral is dedicated to St Wenceslas, who IS the one
in the Christmas Carol.
Inside is a small chapel, known as the Abbot’s Chapel where,
in 1932, the original frescos were discovered under several layers of paint. They were painted around 1260 and depict the
life of St John the Apostle
We went to the main square where there is an astronomical clock
on the Town Hall. It was restored during
the Communist era and all the saints replaced by workers, two of whom strike
the quarter hours on an anvil.
There are three fountains in the square, the most
interesting and unusual being Arion's Fountain depicting nightmarish scenes
from under the sea.
It is said that rubbing the turtle's head will bring you good luck. We didn't test this out.
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