DOWN THE VIA AURELIA (SLOWLY!)

Crossing into Italy we drove for several hundred kilometres down the Via Aurelia as it snaked up and down, round and about along the coast where the mountains seemed to tumble straight into the sea.  Most of the time we were limited to 50KPH (30MPH) so it was slow going but it gave us a chance to see the views.  We had our first snow of the journey right by the sea, just north of Genoa.

Genoa was fascinating.  We took our bikes in on the train and cycled round the old town where many of the streets are so narrow that it would be barely possible to get a car through.

When it was built Genoa was ruled by the Spanish and the warren of streets reminded us of the Medinas – walled towns built by the Spanish of the same period in Morocco.   It is definitely a city of contrasts – Italy’s largest sea port yet filled with grand palaces built in the 16^th century on condition that they would be made available for entertaining visiting royalty. 

 In between the palaces we went along streets where prostitutes smiled at us from shady doorways, through piazzas full of restaurants, by smart modern shops and buildings where you might suddenly find a bas-relief panel set in an otherwise non-descript wall …

… churches decorated with beautiful wall and ceiling paintings …

… and the unusual black and white Cathedral. 

There was also litter everywhere and dog dirt on the pavements – but that is something we have found everywhere in Italy so far! 

Continuing down the Via Aurelia we arrived at Pisa where we were able to stay on a “Camper Sop” run by the local caravan club.  From it we walked down to the river …

… then through the old town, stopping for lunch at a street café, before arriving at the Piazza dei  Miracoli (Field of Miracles).

In the centre of this huge grassed area is the Cathedral with on one side the Baptistry and on the other the Tower which really does lean.  Actually all three buildings lean by various amounts! The Tower is, in fact, slightly banana shaped. 

It began to sink to one side when the first three storeys were built.  The foundations were strengthened and the builders continued upwards curving each successive story slightly so that the top remained above base!  The lean became worse until by 1993 it was 4.47m out of plumb.  Major work was carried out on the foundations which reduced the lean and, it is hoped, has prevented it from falling over!

The Cathedral was the largest in Europe when it was built.  The huge octagonal pulpit in the north aisle, sculpted from Carrara marble by Giovanni Pisano between 1259 and 1260 is one of the earliest pieces of Italian sacred art to feature nude and heroic figures.

It forms a striking contrast to the modern altar by Italian sculptor Giuliano Vangi, which was controversially installed in 2001.

Next stop Rome – look out for an update soon, internet connections permitting!!